Entertaining meal at "Le Jeu de Quilles"

I rarely dine out at night.  Mainly because it's more expensive and usually it's a 2 to 3 hour ordeal, so by the time I get home it's about midnight.  However, when I have a friend in town, I always see it as an opportunity to do some fine dining and also to show a visitor a different side of the dining scene in Paris.

The area of Mouton Duvernet in the 14th district of Paris might not be well known, however, this neighborhood is filled with hidden jewels of restaurants, wine shops, and speciality shops.
I was taking a stroll in the area once and passed by the restaurant.  I have heard many great things and reviews about this small bistro, which probably sits only about 20 people.  The restaurant gets its meat from the famous butcher next door "Hugo Desnoyer" known as one of the best butcher shops in Paris.  It sources its beef from the region of Limousin of superb quality (yes meaning grass fed and able to roam around in an open area!)   It was about 7pm (way before dinner hour in France), outside "le jeu de quilles" the chefs and servers were chatting and drinking wine.  I went into make a reservation, and the staff was extremely friendly.  I was excited for my dinner already!

Friday night came, we went in, and the server immediately recognized me with a big smile.  The restaurant had an open kitchen, which you could see all the activities of the chefs, which is always a big enjoyment for me.  There was some lively music playing in the background, and the whole kitchen seemed like a party. 

I started off by asking for a recommendation of red wine, the server told me he'll bring me something that I will like, and I will have to guess what it is.  I ended up guessing wrong, but it was a glass of Morgan, from the Beaujolais Region.  I usually don't like Beaujolais wine, but this one was of quality.

The a la carte menu was reasonably priced.  For the appetizer, I ordered a marinated fish, tartare style.  While my friend opted for the poached White Asparagus with a cream sauce and pancetta.  The fish was simply marinated in olive oil and vinegar served with some warm green onions on top, it was divine.  I ordered the veal carpaccio as the main course.  Normally I don't go for meat when there is a fish option on the menu, but this place is known for their meat, and I know the quality is top!  Meagan ordered their famous Limousin steak (which she was told she doesn't get to decide how it's cooked.) 



Veal Carpaccio

The veal carpaccio can only be described as an orgasm in my mouth.  It was served with shaved Parmesan cheese, olive oil, and salad.  It was absolutely out of this world.  I don't think I have ever tasted something that just simply melts in your mouth like it belonged there.  I wished the plate would never end.  Meagan's steak was also top-notched, she actually said this might've been the best steak she's ever eaten.  These two dishes are the perfect examples of good, fresh, and quality ingredients.  It was simply prepared.  The steak didn't need to be marinated, only some simple sea salt and pepper was enough to let you take in the true taste of the meat.

When I finished my glass of wine, the server asked me if I wanted another one.  I made a joke and asked him if he was going to offer it to me.   And sure enough, I received a free glass of wine, of quality of course. 

After seeing what the couple next to us had for dessert, we simply couldn't say no.  We shared a chocolate "soup" topped with a pistachio macarron.  Ok, is it possible to have 2 orgasms in your mouth within 2 hours?  The chocolate soup was warm, and not overly sweet.  The macarron gave it the perfect finish.

Dinner at le jeu de quilles was not only just an unforgettable gastronomically experience, it was a taste of a real Parisian bistro with an amicable touch.




The server that was everyone's best friend

Jeu de Quilles45, rue Boulard, 75014
01 53 90 76 22. Open only Wed–Sat, lunch and dinner.



What I miss the most about the US of A

After being away from the American style for more or less two years, there are certain things that I really crave and miss.  Yes I am in France, the land of some of the best cuisine, culture, history, etc. in the world; and I am defnitely taking advantage of all that!  Yet, you know there are just the little things such as....

• Trader Joe's, 'nough said!
• REI, sorry but Decathlon is just not the same... not even close!
• People who know what a Chaco tan or TEVA tan is.
• Iced tea, I guess that's an American thing?
• Diner style breakfast such as pancakes (blueberries preferred), eggs, and some nice home fries.
• Veggie Burgers, actually any type of burgers in general, that's one thing the French can't do right!
• Local farmer's markets.
• Coffeeshops, I know Paris is famous for these, but I miss chill coffee places in the US where you can buy a huge cup of joe, and just sit and read for the entire day.
• Microbreweries: especially ones in Utah and Colorado!
• Happy hours!!  Sorry Parisian Cafe, but 5 Euros for a beer does not equal happy hour.
• Pot-lucks!!
• Camping and grilling
• 

   
• Thanksgiving, my favorite Holiday!
• 
• oh and of course MY AWESOME FRIENDS!
• 

Some of my favorite wine shops in Paris

I LOVE WINE.  I don't think I can put any more meaning into those 3 words!  And I am currently residing in the best place in the world for wine, France.  Nothing excites me more than going to a local neighborhood wine shop, even if I'm just browsing.  The regions, the grape varieties, the cepages, etc. The list is endless.  Paris is full of "cave a vins" which are specialized wine shops.  What I like about these stores rather than buying wine at the super market is that each shop usually stocks wines from specific producers.  Hence, every shop will generally have wines from very specific wines from small producers that you won't find else where.  Also, wine owners or sommeliers usually will give you excellent advice.  You can tell them what type of wine you're looking for, what kind of food you want to pair it with, along with the price range, and they will point out a few bottles for you.



Learning about wine is a challenge in itself.  There is just endless amount of information.  The best way to learn, of course, is to taste the wine.  Many fancy wine stores and restaurants will often have "cours des degustations", wine tasting courses.  However, these usually cost more than 80 Euros, and is way out of my budget.  Luckily, there are many wine shops in Paris that hold free tastings.  Some have them every Saturday, others do them once every so often.    But here are some that I frequent fairly often.

1. Les Caves de Taillevent
199 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honore, 75008 Paris
http://www.cavestaillevent.com/

Owned by the same people as the Michelin-starred restaurant "Le Taillevent" this wine store stocks some of the most prestigious wines from all over France.  Apparently the basement houses more than 150,000 bottles in it shop, which you would never know just by being inside the shop. 
Les Caves de Taillevent has something for you to taste every single day.  However, every Saturday they usually select 3 or 4 wines based on a specific theme, whether it's the grape, region, or one time it was "wine from the mountains."  I go so often now that all the sommeliers know me.  And even though I don't buy a lot of wines these (for obviously budget reasons!), they are still very friendly and willing to answer any questions that I have. 
This prestigious wine shop also has their own marque, the "Collections Taillevent" where they partner with 40 proprieters and chateaux in France.  They hold two sales every year, one in March and the other in September where a selection of wine is 20% off.  But better get there quick as the stock runs out fast!

2. Le Vin en Tête
Cave St. Georges
48 rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, 75009
Cave St. Placide
53 rue Saint Placide, 75006
Cave Batignolles
30 rue des Batignolles, 75017
http://levinentete.fr/

This friendly wine shop has 3 stores in Paris.  They supply many organic and natural wines.  The sommeliers there are always friendly and gives excellent advice.  They always have one or two bottles open for wine shoppers to taste.  Often they will hold tastings directly with the vignerons.  These are great opportunities to learn about wine from the people who produce them!  Tastings are usually Friday evenings and Saturday at the St. George store.  But it depends, I would say check their website for the latest tastings, however, it hasn't been updated recently.  Their wine is a little bit on the pricier side.

3. La Dernière Goutte
6 rue Bourbon le Chateau, 75006
http://ladernieregoutte.net/

This small wine shop in the St. Germain des Pres neighborhood is popular among English speakers, as the owner is Anglophone himself.  However don't let that deter you from going.  This shop stocks wines mainly from small producers of excellent quality.  Every Friday night from 17h30 to 19h30, they hold an informal "Happy Hour" where you get to taste a few wines along with some cheese.  On Saturdays they also hold an all day tasting.  Always fun and lively!

4. Le Cellier des Marchés
24, rue Mouton Duvernet 75014
http://www.cellierdesmarches.com/index.html

This is fast becoming probably my favorite wine shop in Paris.  One of the reasons being it's rather close to me.  They also stock wines from small producers across France.  I have rarely found wines in this stores else where.  The store attendant there is very knowledgeable and friendly, he always takes his time explaining each wine to me; and so far he has not recommended a bad wine to me.  The prices are very reasonable.  Usually they have 1 or 2 things to taste on Saturdays, except for when the truck shipment doesn't show up....

5. Les Caves de la Nation
55 avenue Philippe Auguste 75011
No website

I put down this wine store, because it is about 2 steps away from my office.  They stock some decent wines.  From time to time, one of my co-workers will go there and buy a bottle to drink at the park when the weather is nice.  The guy that works there is also very cute :)

6. Caves Auges
116 blvd Haussmann, 75008
http://www.cavesauge.com/

One of Paris' oldest wine shops.  Usually from March to June, they will host a grand monthly tasting based on a region in France.  The shop is worth going to just for browsing as their collection is quite overwhelming.  I do have to say the service isn't the greatest.

Saturday tasting at Cave Auges

Other wine stores that I like

La Cave des Papilles
35 rue Daguerre, 75014
http://www.lacavedespapilles.com/La_Cave_des_Papilles/La_Cave.html

La Cave des Martyrs
39 rue des Martyrs 75009

La Cave des Abbessess
43 rue des Abbesses, 75018

La Cave du Père Lachaise
3 Avenue Gambetta 75020
http://www.lacaveduperelachaise.com/

A few of my favorite things about Turkey!

In no particular order

1. Ayran: salty yogurt drink that is the perfect combination to a kebab, simit, or pretty much everything!

2. Self-Service restaurants: pick from an array of yummy food, and cheap!

3. Mosques: so beautiful!


4. That I was able to get from one continent to another in a 20 min. ferry ride.

5. Tea: people drank tea all the time!  I love the glassware and the trays they use.

6. Fresh squeezed juices: from orange, grapefruit, carrot, promegrenate, apple, etc. you name it, and all for less than one euro!
7. Beautiful coasts

8. Amazing historical sites like Epheus (the only one I got to see, there are many more of course!)

9. Excellent bus and ferry system

10. Turkish Coffee, it's totally worth the extra time to make it!

11. Dried fruits and dried chickpeas

Free Museum days in Paris, a few of my favorites

I love museums, and fortunately for me, I currently live in a city with some of the best museums in the world.  Other than the big names of the Louvre, Centre Pompidou, and Musee D'Orsay, there are many lesser known ones that are equally worth going to. 
Since I am no longer in the "under 26" age group, where entries to many museums are free, and since I am also too cheap to pay, I take advantage of the Free museum days.

One of my newly discovered place is the "Jeu de Paume".  It's a gallery right next to the Jardin des Tuileries that holds photography exhibitions that changes every few months.  It consists of three levels, usually with a different exhibition on each level.  They recently just concluded an excellent and compelling exhibition on the works of the now jailed Chinese activist/photographer Ai Wei Wei. 

Free when?

Only for studetns and those under 26 ! The last Tuesday of every month from 17h to 21h.  I would advise going before 19h to avoid a long line.
http://www.jeudepaume.org/

Another place that I've frequented is the Maison Europeene de la Photographie. It is located in a side-street near the metro "St. Paul".  It houses collections of contemporary photographic art as well as temporary photography exhibitions that changes frequently.  It's a must go for any photography or contemporary art fans!

Free when?

Every Wednesday evening from 17h to 20h.
http://www.mep-fr.org/us/default.htm

Musee des arts et Metiers has a collection of "stuff" and objects from science, engineering, transportation, communication, energy, etc.  They are displayed in a chronological order.  The museum is fun for kids and especially science geeks!

Free when?

The first Sunday of every month, and every Thursday from 18h to 21h.
http://www.arts-et-metiers.net/musee.php?P=228

The following is a list of museums that are free the First Sunday of every month (courtesy of Parisinfo.com)

Musée national d'art moderne - Centre Pompidou – 4^th

Musée de l'Assistance Publique - Hôpitaux de Paris – 5^th

Musée national des Arts asiatiques Guimet – 16^th

Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature – 3^th

Musée national Eugène Delacroix – 6^th

Musée Gustave Moreau - 9^th

Musée national Ernest Hebert

Musée national Jean-Jacques Henner – 17^th

Musée du Louvre – 1^st

Musée national du Moyen Âge - Thermes de Cluny – 5^th

Musée national de l'Orangerie – 1^st

Musée d'Orsay – 7^th

Musée national Picasso – 3^rd

Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine – 16^th

Cité nationale de l’histoire de l’immigration – 12^th

Musée du Quai Branly – 7^th

Musée Rodin – 7^th

Dinner at les Petits Plats, where les plats aren't really that petit!

This past weekend, I had my first visitor since my arrival in Paris.  My friend, whom I haven't seen in a year and a half came for a quick visit from Boston.  We both LOVE food and wine, so I really had to make sure I made reservations at some impressive restaurants.
This was also a chance for me to dine a bit more fancily at dinner.  Normally I only dine out at lunch as it is cheaper and not as weird to dine alone.
For our last night together, I made a reservations at a small restaurant not far from my apartment in the 14th arrondissement called "Les petits plats," meaning small plates.  The concept is to let diners try out different things in smaller portions.  The set dinner menu lets you choose 4 small plates for 35 euros.  You can choose any combination that you wish: I opted for 1 entree, 2 maind dishes, and 1 dessert, as did my friend.  We found out very soon that these plates aren't exactly as petit as we thought!

There was a little "mise en bouche" to start, with small crostinis and this amazing olive tapenade.  My first course was a white fish gravalax with a creme fraiche sauce wrapped in thinnly sliced carrots.  The creme balanced the fish well, and the piece of baguette was the perfect accompaniment.  My companion had a foamy soup that was poured into a bowl with fresh breadcrumbs right in front of us.  Again, one could probably go through a loaf of bread with the soup alone.

My second dish was pan-fried fish on top of a small crepe filled with leeks and pancetta.  The skin of the fish was crispy, but a bit under-flavored.  But the crepe certain made up for everything!  My friend's second dish was a "riz de veau" carpaccio.  It was served sliced cheese and an excellent cream sauce.  I think this was probably the best dish of the night.  The veal was flavoreful and tender (did I mention it was raw?)

My third course was kind of a decomposed paella.  It was served in two small hot plates, one with the seafood, and the other a wild black rice.  The sauce from the seafood was amazing that I could not resist another piece of bread, even though by this time I was already stuffed.  The other dish was a duck confit ravioli served with sliced pears and grapefruit.  Another inventive and unique dish.


We were both overly full by this point, and expecting our dessert to be just a small sample.  But then out came this big piece of hazelnut eclair and a big bowl of sweet fresh grapefruit and shaved ice.  If that was considered a small plate of eclair, then I don't even want to know what their version of a regular size eclair is!  The flavor of the eclair was to die for, and the caramel sauce complemented it perfectly.  My grapfruit ice dessert was a little lighter, but it was so much that I could barely handle the rest.


Les Petits Plats is a small and quiet restaurant that serves up fun and inventive dishes.  The service was good, and the wine options are plentiful with reasonable prices.  The menu changes everyday.  It is definitely a place that I would go back!

Things that you can ALWAYS find in Paris within a block's radius.

1. Pharmacie: Even the French admit it, every two steps you walk in Paris, you're never far away from the bright green neon light of a Pharmacie.  They do come in handy, especially when I got sick a gazillion times this past winter, and also the fact that I tend to hurt myself rather easily.
But really?  With all the Pharmacies around, you'd think that the French are all infected with some kind of illness or diseases.
There's also the "Parapharmacie" that sells body care products and such.  It's rather bizarre to see famous brands like "Biotherm" on its shelves, when they are sold at fancy department store counters in Taiwan.

2. Brasserie:  I love the multi-functionality of a French Brasserrie.  In the morning you can go and have a coffe with croissant or tartine.  At lunch, they serve lunch with very reasonable prices (usually around 10 Euros for the plat du jour).  In the afternoon, you can go and have coffee or a late-afternoon drink.  And of course dinner at night.  For me they are an excellent choice to rest my legs when I'm tired from exploring the city!
I can serious picture before the banning of smoking that these Brasseries were filled with non-stop smoking customers just chatting away.

3. Boulangerie:  The French love and need their bread for every meal, so it is essential for the existence of boulangeries every other step.  And also, you can even find some that are open on Sunday nights *gasp*
There is nothing better than passing by a boulangerie in the morning and smelling fresh baked bread.  I used to pass by one on my running route, and it'd kill me every time!  I guess since I'm not from here, I like to try out different boulangeries, since the quality differs emmensely.  But there are many French people who swear only by one boulangerie!!
Oh and just a side note, for some reason many of the award winning boulangeries are around the Montmartre area.  But so far my favorite baguette tradition is from a place called "les Ateliers des Pains" near Place de Clichy.

4. Banks:  I think Taipei and Paris should go head to head in who has the most banks in a hundred meter radius.  BNP Paribas, Societe Generale, Credit Agricole, Banque Populaire, Credit Cooperatif, Caisse d'Epargne, HSBC, etc.  I think I can find all of these on Boulevard Voltaire.  Oh not to mention the Post Office also offers banking (and oddly, cellphone service).

5. Small super market chains: Franprix, monoprix, casino, etc.  They're convenient to a certain point, but what I don't like about them is it takes away my joy of shopping at local butchers, cheeseshops, wine shops, seafood shops, etc.  Their existence has also taken a lot of business from small shop owners.  Most of them are owned by the Casino Corporation. 

6. Traiteurs: which are more or less take out joints.  I'm actually really surprised how often the French eat pre-prepared food. 

7.  Ok I have to mention this again... DOG SHIT: and this is something you find every step of the way!