Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Entertaining meal at "Le Jeu de Quilles"




I rarely dine out at night.  Mainly because it's more expensive and usually it's a 2 to 3 hour ordeal, so by the time I get home it's about midnight.  However, when I have a friend in town, I always see it as an opportunity to do some fine dining and also to show a visitor a different side of the dining scene in Paris.

The area of Mouton Duvernet in the 14th district of Paris might not be well known, however, this neighborhood is filled with hidden jewels of restaurants, wine shops, and speciality shops.
I was taking a stroll in the area once and passed by the restaurant.  I have heard many great things and reviews about this small bistro, which probably sits only about 20 people.  The restaurant gets its meat from the famous butcher next door "Hugo Desnoyer" known as one of the best butcher shops in Paris.  It sources its beef from the region of Limousin of superb quality (yes meaning grass fed and able to roam around in an open area!)   It was about 7pm (way before dinner hour in France), outside "le jeu de quilles" the chefs and servers were chatting and drinking wine.  I went into make a reservation, and the staff was extremely friendly.  I was excited for my dinner already!

Friday night came, we went in, and the server immediately recognized me with a big smile.  The restaurant had an open kitchen, which you could see all the activities of the chefs, which is always a big enjoyment for me.  There was some lively music playing in the background, and the whole kitchen seemed like a party. 

I started off by asking for a recommendation of red wine, the server told me he'll bring me something that I will like, and I will have to guess what it is.  I ended up guessing wrong, but it was a glass of Morgan, from the Beaujolais Region.  I usually don't like Beaujolais wine, but this one was of quality.

The a la carte menu was reasonably priced.  For the appetizer, I ordered a marinated fish, tartare style.  While my friend opted for the poached White Asparagus with a cream sauce and pancetta.  The fish was simply marinated in olive oil and vinegar served with some warm green onions on top, it was divine.  I ordered the veal carpaccio as the main course.  Normally I don't go for meat when there is a fish option on the menu, but this place is known for their meat, and I know the quality is top!  Meagan ordered their famous Limousin steak (which she was told she doesn't get to decide how it's cooked.) 


Veal Carpaccio

The veal carpaccio can only be described as an orgasm in my mouth.  It was served with shaved Parmesan cheese, olive oil, and salad.  It was absolutely out of this world.  I don't think I have ever tasted something that just simply melts in your mouth like it belonged there.  I wished the plate would never end.  Meagan's steak was also top-notched, she actually said this might've been the best steak she's ever eaten.  These two dishes are the perfect examples of good, fresh, and quality ingredients.  It was simply prepared.  The steak didn't need to be marinated, only some simple sea salt and pepper was enough to let you take in the true taste of the meat.

When I finished my glass of wine, the server asked me if I wanted another one.  I made a joke and asked him if he was going to offer it to me.   And sure enough, I received a free glass of wine, of quality of course. 

After seeing what the couple next to us had for dessert, we simply couldn't say no.  We shared a chocolate "soup" topped with a pistachio macarron.  Ok, is it possible to have 2 orgasms in your mouth within 2 hours?  The chocolate soup was warm, and not overly sweet.  The macarron gave it the perfect finish.

Dinner at le jeu de quilles was not only just an unforgettable gastronomically experience, it was a taste of a real Parisian bistro with an amicable touch.



The server that was everyone's best friend

Jeu de Quilles45, rue Boulard, 75014
01 53 90 76 22. Open only Wed–Sat, lunch and dinner.




Friday, June 15, 2012

What I miss the most about the US of A

After being away from the American style for more or less two years, there are certain things that I really crave and miss.  Yes I am in France, the land of some of the best cuisine, culture, history, etc. in the world; and I am defnitely taking advantage of all that!  Yet, you know there are just the little things such as....
  • Trader Joe's, 'nough said!
  • REI, sorry but Decathlon is just not the same... not even close!
  • People who know what a Chaco tan or TEVA tan is.
  • Iced tea, I guess that's an American thing?
  • Diner style breakfast such as pancakes (blueberries preferred), eggs, and some nice home fries.
  • Veggie Burgers, actually any type of burgers in general, that's one thing the French can't do right!
  • Local farmer's markets.
  • Coffeeshops, I know Paris is famous for these, but I miss chill coffee places in the US where you can buy a huge cup of joe, and just sit and read for the entire day.
  • Microbreweries: especially ones in Utah and Colorado!
  • Happy hours!!  Sorry Parisian Cafe, but 5 Euros for a beer does not equal happy hour.
  • Pot-lucks!!
  • Camping and grilling
  •  
  • Thanksgiving, my favorite Holiday!
  • oh and of course MY AWESOME FRIENDS!

Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Some of my favorite wine shops in Paris

I LOVE WINE.  I don't think I can put any more meaning into those 3 words!  And I am currently residing in the best place in the world for wine, France.  Nothing excites me more than going to a local neighborhood wine shop, even if I'm just browsing.  The regions, the grape varieties, the cepages, etc. The list is endless.  Paris is full of "cave a vins" which are specialized wine shops.  What I like about these stores rather than buying wine at the super market is that each shop usually stocks wines from specific producers.  Hence, every shop will generally have wines from very specific wines from small producers that you won't find else where.  Also, wine owners or sommeliers usually will give you excellent advice.  You can tell them what type of wine you're looking for, what kind of food you want to pair it with, along with the price range, and they will point out a few bottles for you.



Learning about wine is a challenge in itself.  There is just endless amount of information.  The best way to learn, of course, is to taste the wine.  Many fancy wine stores and restaurants will often have "cours des degustations", wine tasting courses.  However, these usually cost more than 80 Euros, and is way out of my budget.  Luckily, there are many wine shops in Paris that hold free tastings.  Some have them every Saturday, others do them once every so often.    But here are some that I frequent fairly often.

1. Les Caves de Taillevent
199 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honore, 75008 Paris
http://www.cavestaillevent.com/

Owned by the same people as the Michelin-starred restaurant "Le Taillevent" this wine store stocks some of the most prestigious wines from all over France.  Apparently the basement houses more than 150,000 bottles in it shop, which you would never know just by being inside the shop. 
Les Caves de Taillevent has something for you to taste every single day.  However, every Saturday they usually select 3 or 4 wines based on a specific theme, whether it's the grape, region, or one time it was "wine from the mountains."  I go so often now that all the sommeliers know me.  And even though I don't buy a lot of wines these (for obviously budget reasons!), they are still very friendly and willing to answer any questions that I have. 
This prestigious wine shop also has their own marque, the "Collections Taillevent" where they partner with 40 proprieters and chateaux in France.  They hold two sales every year, one in March and the other in September where a selection of wine is 20% off.  But better get there quick as the stock runs out fast!

2. Le Vin en Tête
Cave St. Georges
48 rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, 75009
Cave St. Placide
53 rue Saint Placide, 75006
Cave Batignolles
30 rue des Batignolles, 75017
http://levinentete.fr/

This friendly wine shop has 3 stores in Paris.  They supply many organic and natural wines.  The sommeliers there are always friendly and gives excellent advice.  They always have one or two bottles open for wine shoppers to taste.  Often they will hold tastings directly with the vignerons.  These are great opportunities to learn about wine from the people who produce them!  Tastings are usually Friday evenings and Saturday at the St. George store.  But it depends, I would say check their website for the latest tastings, however, it hasn't been updated recently.  Their wine is a little bit on the pricier side.

3. La Dernière Goutte
6 rue Bourbon le Chateau, 75006
http://ladernieregoutte.net/

This small wine shop in the St. Germain des Pres neighborhood is popular among English speakers, as the owner is Anglophone himself.  However don't let that deter you from going.  This shop stocks wines mainly from small producers of excellent quality.  Every Friday night from 17h30 to 19h30, they hold an informal "Happy Hour" where you get to taste a few wines along with some cheese.  On Saturdays they also hold an all day tasting.  Always fun and lively!

4. Le Cellier des Marchés
24, rue Mouton Duvernet 75014
http://www.cellierdesmarches.com/index.html

This is fast becoming probably my favorite wine shop in Paris.  One of the reasons being it's rather close to me.  They also stock wines from small producers across France.  I have rarely found wines in this stores else where.  The store attendant there is very knowledgeable and friendly, he always takes his time explaining each wine to me; and so far he has not recommended a bad wine to me.  The prices are very reasonable.  Usually they have 1 or 2 things to taste on Saturdays, except for when the truck shipment doesn't show up....

5. Les Caves de la Nation
55 avenue Philippe Auguste 75011
No website

I put down this wine store, because it is about 2 steps away from my office.  They stock some decent wines.  From time to time, one of my co-workers will go there and buy a bottle to drink at the park when the weather is nice.  The guy that works there is also very cute :)

6. Caves Auges
116 blvd Haussmann, 75008
http://www.cavesauge.com/

One of Paris' oldest wine shops.  Usually from March to June, they will host a grand monthly tasting based on a region in France.  The shop is worth going to just for browsing as their collection is quite overwhelming.  I do have to say the service isn't the greatest.
Saturday tasting at Cave Auges

Other wine stores that I like

La Cave des Papilles
35 rue Daguerre, 75014
http://www.lacavedespapilles.com/La_Cave_des_Papilles/La_Cave.html

La Cave des Martyrs
39 rue des Martyrs 75009

La Cave des Abbessess
43 rue des Abbesses, 75018

La Cave du Père Lachaise
3 Avenue Gambetta 75020
http://www.lacaveduperelachaise.com/