My Fubon Half-Marathon Challenge

I have to say, sometimes I do things out of impulse, meaning that I wasn't thinking when I hit the register button to run the Taipei Fubon Half-Marathon on December 19th, 2010. When I first found out I was going to be Taiwan at least through December, I signed up immediately, I might have been a little bit tipsy when I did it... shhh! I pretty much planned my entire month around the date that I was racing.
This would only be my second half-marathon. Even though I was still running on a consistent basis, I really wasn't sure if I was ready to run 21km again. I got less excited when I found out that this would be the most attended road race event ever held in Taipei. If you know me, you know that I hate crowds. Whoever organized the event must be an amateur, because it does not make sense to have everyone running the full marathon, half-marathon, and the 9km (I don't even want to get into why it's 9km and not 10km) event all start at 7am sharp! Not to mention that there was some stupid 3km fun run that they were holding an hour later.
It is too early!

The always crowded transfer point
Race Day:
I woke up at 5am sharp, and was out the door at around 5:30am. The MRT opened early that day to accommodate racers. The race was to start near Taipei City Hall, which is pretty damn far from my house. My dad drove me to Chientan MRT station and my mom and I hopped on the train. It was already crazy crowded at Taipei Main Station when we go there to transfer to the blue line. We got to Taipei City Hall, and the number of people that were there was a really overwhelming. It took us forever to get to the bag drop-off place. And then I had to walk forever to get to the potty johns. It was closing in on 7am, and I was still in line! Thank you whoever invented the time chip!!! I decided to wait 10 minutes after the official start time to begin my run. It was still crowded and I couldn't see anything.
The Taipei 101 at Sunrise

Jessie's stripping!

Ready!

My #1 Fan

I bolted when I crossed the time sensor, only to run into the sea of people. For the first 10km, I couldn't find a consistent pace because I still had people all around me. I nearly knocked people over several times, and was close to fall flat on my face!
I have to say though, running in the streets of Xinyi district in Taipei doesn't get boring at all. As I was running, there were big screen TVs showing news; there were shops along that I thought I should check out. I even ran past a few bakeries that seemed pretty tasty.
The routes finally split between the 9km group and the Marathon/Half-Marathon group. I finally had the space to find my rhythm. The run went really smoothly for me after that. At one point I started a little observation game to see what brand of running shoes other people had.
It got even less crowded when the marathon route veered off to another road. I think that's when I started really speeding up. I didn't even bother stopping for water or the ridiculous sponges that they were passing out. What was the point of passing out wet sponges?
There were a lot of cheer groups along the way. I tried to give all of them high-fives. It really helps just to have that extra motivation, especially towards the very end.
One of the most interesting parts of the run was when we intersected with the marathon runners, and I got to see the 1st place runner zoom right past me. It's one thing to see world class racers on TV and another to actually see one run past you.
There were 2 hills in the very last 3 kms. People started slowing down, but I wasn't gonna give in when I was so close to the finish line! I started going faster and faster, and when I saw the last km, I just sprinted, I didn't care how my legs were feeling. After I crossed the line I looked at my watch and it said 1:50 something. Wow, I had beat my last half-marathon by more than 5 minutes even with the heavy traffic in the beginning!!! I was so psyched, too bad there was no one there for me to share that feeling with right off the bat.
I got a box of food with my food ticket and ate a much needed banana and some sugary aloe drink. All I wanted though was water, but it was no where to be found...
I then got in line to get a message at one of the Nike tents. I waited about 20-30 minutes. It was worth it though, my legs really needed it.
I went to check the results afterwards, and I placed 13th in my age group! There was no ceremony for the age groups this time, but I did pick up a trophy and some useless prizes. But the best prize of the day was the runner high that I got for the rest of the day.
Next race? The K-Swiss 10km on February 17th!

The End

Lessons from a Atayal tribe hunter

As I've noted already, I am making my stay in Taiwan this time around to be as culturally engaging as possible. Needless to say the possibilities are endless. Many people might not know this, but Taiwan if actually a very ethnically and culturally diverse country. As of right now there are a total of 14 recognized aboriginal tribes in Taiwan, with a few more still in dispute. Last weekend, I joined a day trip with the Society of Wilderness (荒野保護協會) to visit a village populated with the Atayal aboriginal tribe located in the township of Tatung, Yilan County. I was really excited to have this opportunity, because I have never been to an aboriginal village before. I am on my way to slowly learning one of the most well known aboriginal tribes of Taiwan.
The Atayal tribe is the second-largest tribe in Taiwan. They are probably most well-known for their tradition of facial tattoos. This tradition, however, was banned soon after the Japanese occupation in Taiwan. Fortunately, there are talks of a movement to bring back this unique practice.

Yilan County is located roughly an hour away from Taipei, making it a popular tourist destination on the weekends. The area we visited was called "九寮溪", located in a mountainous area.
We were to meet our guide, the hunter "Ashong". Apparently, Ashong used to be a truck driver; one day he took a few people around the mountains in his village, and they were amazed how knowledgeable he was. Thus they recommended that he be a tour guide and representative of his village. And voila! luckily for us, we get to learn about the tribe and their nature with one of the specialist. Traditionally the tribe lived by hunting, fishing, and gathering roots, vegetables, fruits, etc. in the mountains. To be considered a "hunter" one needs to have a special set of skills and knowledge.


Lesson 1: which one can I eat?

Edible

Not Edible

Ashong, cracking open a bamboo steamed rice with his "man-only" knife

Every time the tree peels, it means it's aged one year

山蔬 A mountain plant, found in TW
The roots are edible, really sour, increases saliva.

Yes this creepy furry plant is edible too. Peel off the outside and the inside is similar to that of yam, with a bit of a sweet taste to it.

A black fungus, it's the first time I've seen it in the wild. I was tempted to take it home and make stir-fry with it. If only there were more...

It was quite extraordinary to see Ashong show us what is edible, what cures diarrhea, what plants stop bleeding, etc. etc. I felt like I was walking into a natural buffet and pharmacy. During the tour, it was hard not to admire the beauty of the mountains. This little trail, which had been closed due to a flood has just re-opened. Luckily for us, this means less people.

Ashong also showed us how to set traps to catch wild boar, rats, squirrels and birds. As always, things are easier than it looks...

Wild Boar Trap
Trap for rats and squirrels. Ashong proudly said that his grandmother taught him this. He showed us about 5 times, and no one was able to replicate the process!

How to trap a bird, much easier than the previous one.

After a few hours in the mountains, we headed back to Ashong's house, where he showed us a few traditional tools, crafts, and materials that are rarely made in the modern times. We entered the house and was greeted by....

This is made out of a goat skin. It is used as a raincoat. It can also be used as a mat to sleep on when the hunter is out in the mountains.

A chair where the groom carries the bride on their wedding day. The groom has to carry his bride around to greet the entire village. Rumor has it that if the groom grows tired, then the marriage will not end happily...

This is used to carry chopped wood. It is very heavy just by itself.

Fish trap

Yes, I am holding a dead squirrel. The one of the left is frozen, not yet de-furred (is that a word?) On the right I am holding one with the fur removed. I am holding a sweet potato on the other hand because someone commented on how similar they look... I love the look of that girl in the background.

It's interesting to hear people comment on how "disgusting" it is to eat squirrels, rats, random birds, etc. But if you really think about it, how is it any more disgusting than eating a chicken or beef? It's simply that in our culture we are used to eating what is considered "normal" for us. And when we see things that we tend to associate "cuteness" with, we find it unbearable that people in other cultures actually eat them.

A traditional Atayal building. The picture on the right shows a very clever construction in order to prevent rats from crawling into the building!

I wish I had more time to spend in this village as well as the mountains. I find that there is still so much more to discover regarding the Atayal tribe and their environment. I can only wish that the people in Taiwan will take the time and effort to learn the people and culture that first inhabited this beautiful island. I am only at the tip of 14 giant icebergs, hoping to dig my way through all of them.

A hike in the deep woods of Wulai 烏來的拔刀爾山

Hiking might not be the first thing that people think of when it comes to Taiwan. However, as I've just recently discovered, Taiwan is really a paradise for hikers and nature lovers. The geography of Taiwan is really magnificent. The middle part of this island country is mostly mountainous, plus the tropical climate makes the perfect home to many different plants and trees. Waterfalls are ubiquitous in many hikes, yet one can never be tired of them.
Since I am still a novice when it comes to the many trails and hikes in Taiwan, I decided to do some research. The newspaper usually lists the different hikes that regional hiking associations hold on the weekends. Also luckily for me, one of my parents' friends is an experienced and skilled hiker. He recommended to me a hike this past Sunday in the township of Wulai with the National Alpine Association of Taiwan. It is a considered "B grade", meaning a moderate hike. I decided to try it out and see what real hiking is like in Taiwan.
Only an hour and a half's Metro-rail and bus ride away from my place is the start to a beautiful hiking in Wulai. The township of Wulai is located in Taipei County, and is the home to the aboriginal tribe of Atayal. Wulai literally translates into hot and poisonous, and is famous for its hot springs and beautiful mountains. The area is also full of cultural events and activities. However, I would recommend going on a weekday in order to avoid the weekend crowds!


The group met a 8:30am at one of the bus stops. Quickly I realized that I was probably the only one in the group that was under the age of 40. The majority of the hikers were over 60, I must say I'm impressed. But seriously, has hiking become an activity of the older generation in Taiwan?

My parents' friend Mr. Lin (no relation here!) was also present. We started heading to the trail at around 8:45pm. We took the "backdoor" route to get to the hike. I was immediately drawn the the beauty that surrounded me. Everywhere I took it was green. Only the sound of flowing water and the chirping of birds surrounds our group of hikers.

The first part of the trail was fairly crowded, there were a couple of other groups. About 5 minutes into the hike, we came across the first of the many waterfalls on the way. The first half hour of the hike was on easy terrain. But our guide quickly reminded us that this is only the "appetizer" part of the hike, we are no where close to the main course. I was excited and anxious to see what lies ahead.

We finally reached a cabin where many people were cooking up soup and noodles, boy did it smell good! Apparently THAT was the beginning of our trail head. From there on it was all up hill. What made the hike extremely difficult was the slippery and wet terrain. This was probably my first experience with hiking in a tropical mountain. This section of the hike was pretty empty for a Sunday morning. The trail was rather narrow and the plants were constantly brushing against me throughout the hike. "Curse me for not bringing back my hiking shoes," I thought to myself. I was wearing my mom's running shoes, and needless to say I was slipping the entire way.

I was impressed with the endurance of my fellow hikers. Most of them seemed to be pretty experienced. I was even more in awe of the beauty that surrounded me. I was completely surrounded by the forest. We must've came across 3 waterfalls; each with its own beauty both in sight and sound.

We reached the 1117 meter summit at around 12:30pm. There were already 4 or 5 people there already. I brought 2 rice balls, a yogurt, and a packet of crackers that I bought from the convenience store for lunch. However, other people were cooking up traditional Taiwanese noodles, rice, and clam soup. What a feast! I was obviously a newbie...
My fellow hikers at lunch time.

The Summit

After lunch, I was energized once again. It was also comforting to know that the rest of the way would be downhill!!! It took us another hour and a half to hike down to the temple, called 保慶宮. From the temple down to Wulai is still another 8 km. 3 of the guys decided to walk down, so I followed suit. My adrenaline was still running high, so I started jogging on the parts that ran steeply downhill. Midway through the walk, a car stopped, the 3 guys had hitchhiked, and had room for one more, so I jumped on with them.

The Temple

I'm glad I did, because the way down was a lot farther than I thought. I wish I had a car though, because on the way there were many farms and aboriginal villages. It would have been quite an experience to go in and see them. Oh well, another reason to go back one day!
One I got down to Wulai, I spent some time walking around. However, after being in the mountains for 5 hours, the heavy traffic of tourists started to irk me. I headed toward the bus stop, which already had a line of people. I finally got back home at around 6pm. Funny thing was, I wasn't even tired!
I had just spent a great day hiking and being out in nature. There is still much to be discovered, and I can only hope that one day I would know the mountains of Taiwan like it was my backyard.

A walk in historic Taipei: Monga Area

I recently bought a book called "慢城台北" which translates into "Slow city, Taipei". Slow and Taipei? It seems to me that those 2 words should never belong in the same sentence, not to mention a title! But yest, amidst all the people, food stands, uneven building structures and chaos in Taipei, there is much history to be explored. The author explores 25 historic buildings and streets of Taipei. I decided to retrace his steps in the 艋舺 Monga area and beyond this past Sunday. As people shop away at the annual sale at the Fuxing Sogo department store, I once again avoided the crowd and went on another walking adventure to discover my city.
It's funny how one can look at things from a different perspective. I have seen most of these buildings before, but never really gave it a second thought. However, the more I learn about it, the more I become interested. I'm sure a lot of people think that I'm crazy to spend 3 hours walking around looking at buildings, but for me it's an eye-opening discovery experience.
I took the MRT to the National Taiwan University Hospital station which takes me to my first stop.

1. The National Taiwan University Hospital: Old Site

This building was built in 1916 and still serves as

a hospital today. The magnificent red color of the bricks isn't overpowering and makes the building stand out to its surroundings.

Below shows the decoration of fruits on the building.

Courtyard: a nice area for patients to walk about.

2. The Control Yuan of Taiwan

Built in 1915, the Control Yuan was used as an area government building during the Japanese colonization. The architecture is in the Baroque style. For more information on its architecture go to http://www.cy.gov.tw/build/index.html

3. Zhongshan Hall
Built in 1936, it used to be called the Taipei City Public Auditorium under the Japanese rule. The building used steel-concrete which makes it resistant to fire, earthquakes, and typhoons. It was renamed "Zhongshan Hall" under the KMT rule. Today it is used as a venue for concerts and cultural and official events.
http://english.zsh.taipei.gov.tw/MP_119062.html
Outside on the plaza, there were many teenagers practicing skateboarding and riding their bikes on a Sunday afternoon. A good use of public space?
4. Longshan Temple

The name Longshan temple directly translates in "Dragon Mountain Temple." The original temple was built back in 1738. However because of earthquakes, storms as well as termite infestations it has gone under several renovations. The temple that stands today was rebuilt in 1919 and finished in 1924. Longshan temple was originally a Buddhist temple, however, throughout the years it has incorporated many Taoist deities. The grounds of the temple is rather spacious. It includes 3 halls: The forehall, the main hall, and the rear hall which was added at the end of the 18th century. Not only does Longshan temple serve as a center of the people's religious beliefs, it is also an architectural masterpiece. Longshan temple was given the honor of "second grade" historical site in 1985.

It was nearing 5pm in the afternoon, the sky was getting dark. I was expecting Longshan Temple to be relatively less rowdy than usual. But boy was I wrong. There people lined up to pray. Long tables of snacks and food were laid out (my favorite was a box of Mr. Donuts). It was hard to get a good picture of anything because of the crowd. There were tourists at the same time trying to get a good look at the beautifully crafted temple.


5. Bo Pi Liao

Alright, so I know the name Bo Pi Liao probably doesn't make much sense. But this historical area which is a few blocks down from Longshan temple is a crucial center in the development of Taipei. The very first stores and medical clinics in Taipei were all set up in this area. Today one can still see the remnants of the architectural structures. The city government has also created some reproductions of the old storefronts that used to stand and operate on its exact spot. It was almost like walking down the streets of Taipei decades ago...

The Main Entrance

Poster of an old Taiwanese movie

Reproduction of a Street Food stand

After hours and hours of walking and site-seeing, needless to say I was exhausted. However, I couldn't help feeling jubilant at the same time. I had just had a great tour of the city thanks to a great book and my 2 legs. The best part is discovering new things about the city that I had never noticed before. There is still much to see and learn, but Sunday's excursion was a great starting point!